The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on

Steven Jensen
Steven Jensen

A seasoned lifestyle blogger with a passion for sharing practical tips and creative solutions for modern living.