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I was delighted to discover that the south Indian blend podi – a rubble of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

14 ounces waxy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, cubed into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.